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VOL. LXI INDIANAPOLIS, SEPTEMBER 15, 1906. t j PttKMC I.ll^ARY NO. 37 Ika. p *&aapK*S~Z %xpitvitnct gjcpatrtrnjetit SETTINQ CORNER POSTS Set at Least Pour and One-Half Peet Deep. 1st Premium.—To have gate and corner posts stay where you put them is the most essential part of fence building and gate hanging. Wire fencirrg is now almost the only fence being built The life of a wire fence depends upon the kind of posts used and the manner of setting end posts. To prevent drawing and leaning a corner post should be not less than 4*4 feet in the ground. Holes should be dug large enough to allow of cleats nailed to posts as follows: At bottom of post and on outside (or on side away from fence) six inches above the lower end a cleat of two by six Inch timber, extending six inches on each side of post, should lie firmly spiked. Then one foot below the ground level, on opposite side of post, a similar cleat is firmly spiked. Fill around the post with gravel—never dirt. Next select another good large post and place cleats on it, same as for corner post. Place post eo a brace timber of 4x4, ten feet long, will rest against the second post six inches above the ground, and six inches below the top of corner post. Then take heavy wire, two strands, from top of brace post around the bottom of corner post. Twist wire on both sides of brace, and you will have a corner post always in place. Never use dirt to fill around, for in wet weather it w ill not hold as well as gravel. Posts cleated in this manner will not twist around from the stretching of the wire to one side. A gate post should be treated in the same way; top cleat on side of post next the gate. Now do not foget the other posts in the fence, for much depends upon these posts and manner of setting. In the first place never use any but the best of posts. I find black locust the best, as they last well, and being hard hold the staples when once in. Tf posts are seasoned, carry a box of axle grease. Stick points of staples in the grease and they will drive nicely. Do not set post less than three feet in ground. I hear some one saying "all foolishness; wire does not catch the wind like plank and pickets; two feet is plenty." I find, by sad experience, that to keep posts from lifting, from freezing, and from the contracting of the wire in winter, three feet is not an inch too much. If fence is on uneven ground, nail a cleat on bottom of post where it comes in a hollow. I have in my mind a line of fence built only two years, woven wire, fence put up in fine shape, was a thing of beauty when completed. I suggested to the builder to set posts three feet in the ground. "Oh, no, two feet six inches is plenty." To-day that fence is an eyesore. The posts have lifted at least six inches in low places; the fence is all "buckled up," warped ami twisted, until nil semblance of the original fence is gone. A fence built on correct principles will always be a fence. If built in a hurry and any way, it never is a fence. Fences cost so much nowadays 'tis a wise policy to put *hcm'up out of the best material ami in the best manner. Thirty-Six Years a Reader. Marion Oo. Pill With Stone, Gravel or Cement"";. 2d Premium.—To set a corner post firmly: dig tho lmli's about 31/. feet long, and wide enough for a man to work in easily, and at least 4V_ feet deep, or deeper if ground is loose. Now spike on two pieces of 2> 4 scantling on lower end of post, about two inches up from bottom, just long enough to go iu hole nicely, hewing off the post enough so the pieces fit snugly. After lining up the post fill in little cobble stones until post will stand alone, end theu fill in with any sized stone until hole is full. Next is the bracing. A very simple way, and one that has proven very satisfactory, is to place a solid pole, sawed stick or gas pipe, any of which is very good, being sure it is heavy and strong enough, between the corner post would hold post in place if set deep enough and gate is not too heavy, but post will last longer and will not yield to frosts and wet weather as easily if set in stone. Besides it is a good place to deposit some of stone about the farm, getting them out of the way. If stone are not to be had, use gravel and cement, making it about one-sixth cement. Of course the hole need nit be as large as where filled with stone. Be sure to let stand long enough for cement to thoroughly harden before i.sing. Let stand at least a week or ten days. For anchoring posts in ravines and hollows over which fence is to be stretched, to Farm Home of Miller Warner, Randolph County. and the next or brace post, which should be about 12 feet distant, putting the end of the brace about six inches from the top of corner post and lower end about as far up from the ground on brace post, fitting it very snugly. A small (not large) notch is necessary in the brace post to hold brace. The upper end of brace can be nailed slightly to corner post. Remove all bark from brace ami posts, if you would have them last long. The brace post should be a little larger than common line posts, and set same as gate post, which is explained later. ' Now place a strand of No. 9 wire around lower end of anchor post and around upper end of brace post, about three inches from top, and twist in center until very tight, and the post is ready for any pull, and will remain where it was put. If fence is to be stretcned in more than one direction from post, brace each as above, and .the post will still remain in position. A reliable fence agent, a neighbor of ours, who has stretched a great amount of fence, says he has never pulled out a post that had been set in stone and anchored at bottom, while he had pulled plenty of them that were set in dirt or that were not anchored well. Gate posts may be set on same plan ns corner posts, but on a much smaller scale. The hole can easily be dug with a hand digger, ami need not be more than 10 and 20 inches, according to size of post. Nail on two inch pieces two inches from bottom of post, just long enough to go in hole, and fill up with stone. Dirt hold fence down, anchor same as gate post and the fence will stay where put. Where stones are plenty and have to be picked off of land, have post holes already dug and posts ready to set, and haul the stone around the posts direct from the field. We prefer stone to cement as it is cheap, it is much easier done, will last nearly as long, no danger of post moving, and can be removed if necessary. Steuben Co. P. J. H. Make Anchors of Oood Material '3d Premium.— There are more ways than one by which an end or corner post may be anchored, but we want a good way and at the same time not too expensive. There arc three things a post should not do when the fence is applied to it: 1st, it should not lean over; 2d, it should not lift up out of the ground; 3d, it should not turn around in the ground. The material used iu anchoring the post should be of equal lasting quality with the post. I use a red cedar end post, 8 inches square aud 10 feet long. Take a line post of the same kind, six or seven feet long, have it sawed lengthways in the middle, then cut each half of post in two, making anchors for two end posts from one line post. Place one of these anchors on each side of end post about four inches from the lower end, letting them into post about one inch, and nail firmly with 30 or 40 penny nails. Dig hole some 20 inches wide, and four feet or more long, and five feet deep. Place post in, and tamp very solidtorfoTS of anchors. Then place a good sized stone (larger than a man would want to carry) on each side of post on top of anchors. Then finish filling up the hole, packing dirt firm. I sometimes place large stone in front of post, just under the ground. I have used braces about 8 feet long, letting the lower end test on stone, but owing to the difficulty in getting a stone of the proper shape I make cement blocks to place lower end of brace on. The blocks are six inches square at top, 26 inches high, 10 inches wide, and 24 inches long at base, being made perpendicular on side next to the post and slanting 18 inches on the side away from the post, and are placed two feet in the ground. Notch the upper end of brace into the post near the top, and bevel the other end to rest on the cement block. Bore hole near lower end, to run brace wire through. Run brace wires around end post and through hole in brace, using not less than six No. 9 wires, and twist together. For gate post, dig hole just enough larger than post to give good room for packing, and if ground is of a soft nature place cement around post instead of dirt. Where dirt is used a large stone placed in front of post, a little under the ground, will help very much. Dig hole for gate post 5 feet deep. L. E. M. Premiums of $1, TB cents and 50 cants are given for the best, second and third best articles for the Experience Department each week. Manuscript should be sent direct to the Indiana Farmer Company, and should reach us on* week before date of publication. Topics for future numbers: No. 550, Sept. 22.—Give experience showing the importance of studying the character of the soil and supplying its defects. No. 551, Sept. 29.—Give the proper fall and winter treatment of a flock of sheep. Postal Correspondents Attention. That is a good suggestion of Mr. V. F. Wemmann, our Dearborn county postal correspondent, in this number, to vary the rule a little occasionally and give brief descriptions of your counties, their soil, chief productions, advantages, characteristics, etc. I,ct us have some letters of this kind. The Pnre Pood Law. That the people are still on the winning side as far as pure food legislation is concerned is demonstrated by the fact that the impure food advocates have discovered, much to their disappointment, that under the law of 1903 there exists a joint board, consisting of representatives of the association of official agricultural chemists and the Interstate Food Commission is empowered to establish standards of purity of food products and determine what are regarded as alterations therein. This joint board is ready to cooperate with the Department of Agriculture in the enforcement of the pure food laws. Although its decisions are not binding on the courts they will be, it is thought, generally accepted by the Federal courts. This is just what the food manufacturers tried to avoid, when they caused to be struck out, in the recent pure food laws, a clause which took the fixing of standards Trom the Department of Agriculture. These wily lobbyists failed to take into account the law of 1903, and now the people are in the saddle and we hope will remain in that position for a long time.
Object Description
Title | Indiana farmer, 1906, v. 61, no. 37 (Sept. 15) |
Purdue Identification Number | INFA6137 |
Date of Original | 1906 |
Subjects (LCSH) |
Agriculture Farm management Horticulture Agricultural machinery |
Subjects (NALT) |
agriculture farm management horticulture agricultural machinery and equipment |
Genre | Periodical |
Call Number of Original | 630.5 In2 |
Location of Original | Hicks Repository |
Coverage | United States - Indiana |
Type | text |
Format | JP2 |
Language | eng |
Collection Title | Indiana Farmer |
Rights Statement | Content in the Indiana Farmer Collection is in the public domain (published before 1923) or lacks a known copyright holder. Digital images in the collection may be used for educational, non-commercial, or not-for-profit purposes. |
Repository | Purdue University Libraries |
Date Digitized | 2011-02-10 |
Digitization Information | Original scanned at 300 ppi on a Bookeye 3 scanner using internal software. Display images generated in CONTENTdm as JP2000s; file format for archival copy is uncompressed TIF format. |
Description
Title | Page 1 |
Subjects (LCSH) |
Agriculture Farm management Horticulture Agricultural machinery |
Subjects (NALT) |
agriculture farm management horticulture agricultural machinery and equipment |
Genre | Periodical |
Call Number of Original | 630.5 In2 |
Location of Original | Hicks Repository |
Coverage | Indiana |
Type | text |
Format | JP2 |
Language | eng |
Collection Title | Indiana Farmer |
Rights Statement | Content in the Indiana Farmer Collection is in the public domain (published before 1923) or lacks a known copyright holder. Digital images in the collection may be used for educational, non-commercial, or non-for-profit purposes. |
Repository | Purdue University Libraries |
Digitization Information | Orignal scanned at 300 ppi on a Bookeye 3 scanner using internal software. Display images generated in CONTENTdm as JP2000s; file format for archival copy is uncompressed TIF format. |
Transcript | VOL. LXI INDIANAPOLIS, SEPTEMBER 15, 1906. t j PttKMC I.ll^ARY NO. 37 Ika. p *&aapK*S~Z %xpitvitnct gjcpatrtrnjetit SETTINQ CORNER POSTS Set at Least Pour and One-Half Peet Deep. 1st Premium.—To have gate and corner posts stay where you put them is the most essential part of fence building and gate hanging. Wire fencirrg is now almost the only fence being built The life of a wire fence depends upon the kind of posts used and the manner of setting end posts. To prevent drawing and leaning a corner post should be not less than 4*4 feet in the ground. Holes should be dug large enough to allow of cleats nailed to posts as follows: At bottom of post and on outside (or on side away from fence) six inches above the lower end a cleat of two by six Inch timber, extending six inches on each side of post, should lie firmly spiked. Then one foot below the ground level, on opposite side of post, a similar cleat is firmly spiked. Fill around the post with gravel—never dirt. Next select another good large post and place cleats on it, same as for corner post. Place post eo a brace timber of 4x4, ten feet long, will rest against the second post six inches above the ground, and six inches below the top of corner post. Then take heavy wire, two strands, from top of brace post around the bottom of corner post. Twist wire on both sides of brace, and you will have a corner post always in place. Never use dirt to fill around, for in wet weather it w ill not hold as well as gravel. Posts cleated in this manner will not twist around from the stretching of the wire to one side. A gate post should be treated in the same way; top cleat on side of post next the gate. Now do not foget the other posts in the fence, for much depends upon these posts and manner of setting. In the first place never use any but the best of posts. I find black locust the best, as they last well, and being hard hold the staples when once in. Tf posts are seasoned, carry a box of axle grease. Stick points of staples in the grease and they will drive nicely. Do not set post less than three feet in ground. I hear some one saying "all foolishness; wire does not catch the wind like plank and pickets; two feet is plenty." I find, by sad experience, that to keep posts from lifting, from freezing, and from the contracting of the wire in winter, three feet is not an inch too much. If fence is on uneven ground, nail a cleat on bottom of post where it comes in a hollow. I have in my mind a line of fence built only two years, woven wire, fence put up in fine shape, was a thing of beauty when completed. I suggested to the builder to set posts three feet in the ground. "Oh, no, two feet six inches is plenty." To-day that fence is an eyesore. The posts have lifted at least six inches in low places; the fence is all "buckled up," warped ami twisted, until nil semblance of the original fence is gone. A fence built on correct principles will always be a fence. If built in a hurry and any way, it never is a fence. Fences cost so much nowadays 'tis a wise policy to put *hcm'up out of the best material ami in the best manner. Thirty-Six Years a Reader. Marion Oo. Pill With Stone, Gravel or Cement"";. 2d Premium.—To set a corner post firmly: dig tho lmli's about 31/. feet long, and wide enough for a man to work in easily, and at least 4V_ feet deep, or deeper if ground is loose. Now spike on two pieces of 2> 4 scantling on lower end of post, about two inches up from bottom, just long enough to go iu hole nicely, hewing off the post enough so the pieces fit snugly. After lining up the post fill in little cobble stones until post will stand alone, end theu fill in with any sized stone until hole is full. Next is the bracing. A very simple way, and one that has proven very satisfactory, is to place a solid pole, sawed stick or gas pipe, any of which is very good, being sure it is heavy and strong enough, between the corner post would hold post in place if set deep enough and gate is not too heavy, but post will last longer and will not yield to frosts and wet weather as easily if set in stone. Besides it is a good place to deposit some of stone about the farm, getting them out of the way. If stone are not to be had, use gravel and cement, making it about one-sixth cement. Of course the hole need nit be as large as where filled with stone. Be sure to let stand long enough for cement to thoroughly harden before i.sing. Let stand at least a week or ten days. For anchoring posts in ravines and hollows over which fence is to be stretched, to Farm Home of Miller Warner, Randolph County. and the next or brace post, which should be about 12 feet distant, putting the end of the brace about six inches from the top of corner post and lower end about as far up from the ground on brace post, fitting it very snugly. A small (not large) notch is necessary in the brace post to hold brace. The upper end of brace can be nailed slightly to corner post. Remove all bark from brace ami posts, if you would have them last long. The brace post should be a little larger than common line posts, and set same as gate post, which is explained later. ' Now place a strand of No. 9 wire around lower end of anchor post and around upper end of brace post, about three inches from top, and twist in center until very tight, and the post is ready for any pull, and will remain where it was put. If fence is to be stretcned in more than one direction from post, brace each as above, and .the post will still remain in position. A reliable fence agent, a neighbor of ours, who has stretched a great amount of fence, says he has never pulled out a post that had been set in stone and anchored at bottom, while he had pulled plenty of them that were set in dirt or that were not anchored well. Gate posts may be set on same plan ns corner posts, but on a much smaller scale. The hole can easily be dug with a hand digger, ami need not be more than 10 and 20 inches, according to size of post. Nail on two inch pieces two inches from bottom of post, just long enough to go in hole, and fill up with stone. Dirt hold fence down, anchor same as gate post and the fence will stay where put. Where stones are plenty and have to be picked off of land, have post holes already dug and posts ready to set, and haul the stone around the posts direct from the field. We prefer stone to cement as it is cheap, it is much easier done, will last nearly as long, no danger of post moving, and can be removed if necessary. Steuben Co. P. J. H. Make Anchors of Oood Material '3d Premium.— There are more ways than one by which an end or corner post may be anchored, but we want a good way and at the same time not too expensive. There arc three things a post should not do when the fence is applied to it: 1st, it should not lean over; 2d, it should not lift up out of the ground; 3d, it should not turn around in the ground. The material used iu anchoring the post should be of equal lasting quality with the post. I use a red cedar end post, 8 inches square aud 10 feet long. Take a line post of the same kind, six or seven feet long, have it sawed lengthways in the middle, then cut each half of post in two, making anchors for two end posts from one line post. Place one of these anchors on each side of end post about four inches from the lower end, letting them into post about one inch, and nail firmly with 30 or 40 penny nails. Dig hole some 20 inches wide, and four feet or more long, and five feet deep. Place post in, and tamp very solidtorfoTS of anchors. Then place a good sized stone (larger than a man would want to carry) on each side of post on top of anchors. Then finish filling up the hole, packing dirt firm. I sometimes place large stone in front of post, just under the ground. I have used braces about 8 feet long, letting the lower end test on stone, but owing to the difficulty in getting a stone of the proper shape I make cement blocks to place lower end of brace on. The blocks are six inches square at top, 26 inches high, 10 inches wide, and 24 inches long at base, being made perpendicular on side next to the post and slanting 18 inches on the side away from the post, and are placed two feet in the ground. Notch the upper end of brace into the post near the top, and bevel the other end to rest on the cement block. Bore hole near lower end, to run brace wire through. Run brace wires around end post and through hole in brace, using not less than six No. 9 wires, and twist together. For gate post, dig hole just enough larger than post to give good room for packing, and if ground is of a soft nature place cement around post instead of dirt. Where dirt is used a large stone placed in front of post, a little under the ground, will help very much. Dig hole for gate post 5 feet deep. L. E. M. Premiums of $1, TB cents and 50 cants are given for the best, second and third best articles for the Experience Department each week. Manuscript should be sent direct to the Indiana Farmer Company, and should reach us on* week before date of publication. Topics for future numbers: No. 550, Sept. 22.—Give experience showing the importance of studying the character of the soil and supplying its defects. No. 551, Sept. 29.—Give the proper fall and winter treatment of a flock of sheep. Postal Correspondents Attention. That is a good suggestion of Mr. V. F. Wemmann, our Dearborn county postal correspondent, in this number, to vary the rule a little occasionally and give brief descriptions of your counties, their soil, chief productions, advantages, characteristics, etc. I,ct us have some letters of this kind. The Pnre Pood Law. That the people are still on the winning side as far as pure food legislation is concerned is demonstrated by the fact that the impure food advocates have discovered, much to their disappointment, that under the law of 1903 there exists a joint board, consisting of representatives of the association of official agricultural chemists and the Interstate Food Commission is empowered to establish standards of purity of food products and determine what are regarded as alterations therein. This joint board is ready to cooperate with the Department of Agriculture in the enforcement of the pure food laws. Although its decisions are not binding on the courts they will be, it is thought, generally accepted by the Federal courts. This is just what the food manufacturers tried to avoid, when they caused to be struck out, in the recent pure food laws, a clause which took the fixing of standards Trom the Department of Agriculture. These wily lobbyists failed to take into account the law of 1903, and now the people are in the saddle and we hope will remain in that position for a long time. |
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